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by Steve Sawyer
CAULKING CHECKS
To caulk checks or not to caulk checks? This is the question. I trust that we may be able to cover the when, where and why concerns of caulking checks in this column. Many of the answers may seem to rely on common sense but, face it, common sense is a rare commodity with many people in the world today. This isn't written in order to blame the people for it isn't their fault it is just that society doesn't promote the idea of common sense being a good thing any longer. Maybe the term 'under-developed ' common sense would be more appropriate? In any case, bear with us here and maybe some of the claims that have been received in the past can be prevented from happening in the future.
The sealing systems that are currently specified for use on our logs have been developed through many years experience both within the KBLH window of knowledge and the feedback from those who work at the jobsites. These sealing systems do work very well in a perfect world. In the reality of a non-perfect world we need to develop some common sense.
We tend to think of caulking checks as a maintenance concern but it is much more than that so lets 'begin at the beginning'...laying logs.
When laying logs we need to keep in mind that any sealing system is fine as long as a check doesn't allow air or water to get past it. What we mean by this is that if a check is opened up in such a way that it goes in behind, under or over a sealing system then a leak is probable. This leak may be air and/or water both of which are unacceptable.
Some common places to be aware of that can create leaks related to checks:
1) Bottom surface of logs
This area will typically create an air leak but not a water leak unless a lot of wind is involved.
It is good practice to inspect the bottom of logs as they are being laid. If a check seems like it is or will be crossing from the inside to the outside of a log, or even crossing the groove area it should be dealt with before the log is laid.
Drill hole (3/8" diameter) directly into the check to a depth greater than the depth of the check. Insert nozzle of caulk gun and , with pressure on the caulk gun, fill the hole with caulk. Many times you will feel the hydraulic pressure trying to push the caulk gun back out of the hole.
2) Top surface of logs
This area can allow air and/or water leakage. Address in like manner as above.
3) Butt joint areas
Butt joint checks can create air or water leaks. If these are detected prior to laying both logs checks can be addressed by drilling into the check at the butt end of the log and then pumping , as described above, full of caulk. If it is addressed after the logs are laid it will be necessary to drill the face of the log.
4) Corner areas (typically at a female log end)
Air or water leaks created here. Looking at the inside face of the female log. If a check is on the stockade corner area and extends from the outside of the home to the inside it needs to be caulked as depicted earlier.
5) Near windows or doors
Probably the most common place to see an air or a water leak. These can many times be traced to a check although improper exterior trim application is the most common culprit.
Drill checks (along with the required 'dam hole' between the logs)and caulk as depicted above. This should be done prior to installing window trim.
6) Flashing areas
Flashing may be installed at roof line to log wall connections or any similar areas. The idea, of course, of the flashing is to curtail any chance of leakage. Again, the spoiler can be a check. If the check runs behind the flashing itself there is a leak waiting to happen. Drill and caulk. (As a side note all flashing areas should have 'dam holes' drilled between the logs back to the tongue of the log and caulked in similar manner as we do with window trim installation)
Further comments on drilling checks:
Many checks will eventually run to the heart of the log and stop there. One of the main reasons that KBLH strives to mill logs from the heart of the tree is to ensure that checks do not find their way through the log. When drilling checks the depth of the hole should be at least a little past the depth of the check. It is not a bad idea , however, to drill to the center of the log. Where is the center? The heart may not be in the exact center of the log but drilling a little deeper than needed is better than not drilling deep enough.
Typically checks are drilled with a 3/8" bit. (Note: The proper bit should be a self feed auger bit or a metal cutting bit...do not use spade , or butterfly, bits)This size is not cast in stone. There have been difficult cases where it was felt that a larger drill bit should be used. This is not a problem but be cautious keeping in mind that if done properly the drilled check will not even be visible.
Caulking checks in general:
We receive a lot of questions about what to do with checks on the face of logs and not near a sealing system area. We are not a big advocate of overly caulking checks that are simply on the face of a log. The ones that should be dealt with would be any check that will obviously hold water. If a check will not allow water to sit in it it probably does not need to be dealt with.
It should be said that when a home is treated it is essential that the checks have the preservative applied within them. This will assist in repelling unwanted water.
One important thing to keep in mind when caulking checks is that we do not want to create a situation where water that previously could get into a check and run on out of it will now become trapped by the caulk. If water can run through a check that has preservative applied to it there is little chance that and wood damage will occur.
Interior checks:
The best thing to do with interior checks is to leave them alone.
If there is a check that someone feels they just have to do something with it may be filled with wood putty but this 'fix' has some definite shortcomings.
As logs age they assume more of a honey color. If a check is puttied within the first few years the color of the putty will not match the logs after they have aged. (A side note here is to remember that this fact also applies to nail holes that are puttied on window and door trim..it is best to wait or live with the little white spots later on). Putty , or filler of any kind , tends to crack with time as these products do not have elasticity along with the bonding qualities that are required to address a check properly. In lieu of putty some have used caulk with varying degrees of satisfaction.
In order to make an interior check 'disappear' totally there is only one method that will work. The face, or a portion of the face, of the log with the check in it can be routed out to a depth of 3/4" and a new piece of wood can be placed into the routed area. Typically a 1x8 or 1x 6 , depending on log profile can be used for 'D' profiles (bevel edges as required to match v-grooves on logs). If the logs have a rounded inside face, log siding will have to be used. Swedish cope logs will require log siding (call the service dept for discussion prior to attempting this procedure with Swedish cope). Dovetail logs would utilize a 1 x 12 for this procedure with the face of the member being shaped to match the profile of the log.
This procedure should be done prior to the logs aging if possible to allow the coloration to be more consistent. If it must be done at a later date due to a check opening up the color will blend in eventually.
This same procedure can be utilized if a log becomes damaged after construction. With some creativity it can also be used to mount electrical boxes that may have to be added where no holes had been drilled up through the log wall.
Wood in general has a lot of character to it. This is a big part of why we love log homes. The checks that we see is a part of that character. It is how we deal with the challenges that this character sometimes presents that matters.
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